![]() Plug in a wifi mesh into the router, and distribute the way-points. My recommendation is to keep your current modem (if it still works), and just not use the wifi part of it. Modem only - ARRIS - SURFboard 16 x 4 DOCSIS 3.0 ($69 Bestbuy).I have only power-cycled the modem&router once in that 3yr period (previously I was resetting the network monthly). No bandwidth issues, and very high reliability (up-time). I went with the following options three years ago, and have been completely pleased with the results. Netgear Nighthawk AC1900 Dual-Band Cable Modem-Router $179.99 Then I would have to buy a wifi router - Costco has three - TP-Link Archer AX11000 ($200) vs. Just looking at one source (costco) so far but I'm open to any suggestionsĬable modem - Netgear Nighthawk CM1100 $119.99. ![]() I'm leaning towards getting separate modem and wifi router rather than all in one but I'm open to any recommendations. Useage - at peak useage - netflix on TV, kid on netflix, another kid on youtube or playing online game, and maybe me on youtube too. In the past I bought a wifi range extender and it wasn't that great so we just don't use wifi in those two bedrooms (one spare, the other is kid play room). The complete opposite side of the house has useless wifi. The rental Arris TG1672 (combo modem/wifi router) sits in the bedroom in the corner of our home (the 3000 square feet is basically a square) in the bedroom which is where my desk with computer is. I'm now looking again but turning to BH to see if anyone who has done this has recommendations?Ĭurrent set-up - ~3000 square foot home. I've looked before and didn't pull the trigger b/c was overwhelmed with so many choices. Try to balance your devices across the 2.4g and 5g radios.Well, after at least 20 years of renting from spectrum I've finally decided to look into getting a cable modem and a wifi router. It is already bad that you have to compete with neighbors you have no control. The key thing in general is to use ethernet cable as much as you possibly can so you reduce the wifi competition between your devices. So the device can hear the router but the router can not hear the end device as well. Many end devices especially portable ones do not because of size and to save battery power. Most routers transmit at the legal maximum power. This is also true when it comes to coverage. Be careful to see what your end devices can actually use before spending extra money. ![]() This is true of many other feature like mu-mimo or some of the non standard data encoding router use to get bigger "numbers". The vast majority can only have 2 antenna and only support 2x2 mimo. Many router will do 4x4 mimo but it is a very rare feature on a end device. First you have to be careful about buying feature on the router the end devices will not use. The main issue with wifi is your end devices most times not the router. I'd like to keep the cost under $150 but can go up to $200 if it really makes a big difference. I'm not sure if I have done a good job describing my needs, so please let me know if more is required. The more frequent use case will be video calls on 2 devices while using virtual desktop environments on 2 other devices. The maximum amount of devices in use at one time would likely look like playing music on 1 smart speaker, streaming sports on the 2 firesticks, and video calling with 2 devices (laptops or phones). I have a lot of smart speakers (about 7 or 8,) 2 or 3 smartphones, 2 laptops, and 2 firesticks. My model will be located suboptimally at one end of my small house where the TV connection is, and will need to reach through 2 or 3 walls to a room about 35 - 40 feet away. Hi there, I'm going to be switching to Spectrum (100 mbps) soon and have read that it's best to use the Spectrum-provided free modem, but to get your own router instead of paying monthly for a low quality one from Spectrum.
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